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When I’ve taught friends to DJ, one of the things I try to get across early is the importance of matching the levels of the two tracks being mixed. A sudden big drop in the volume is a surefire way to lose energy on the dance floor – or even clear it if you’re really unlucky! The way Traktor handles metering and the labels on its volume controls can lure you into making a real mess of your levels.
When I first realised this on switching from CDJs and an analogue mixer to using Traktor and a sound card, it prompted me to take a deeper look into the best way to get the level right. Today I’m going to explain why turning the master volume down in Traktor is essential if you mix “in the box”, ie in internal mode – which if you use a DJ controller, is exactly what you do.
The problem:
You may have already run into this problem. You’ve just dropped a dancefloor-filling track, but when you try to smoothly bring in the next tune, it’s too quiet. Faders and the main volume control are already all the way up, and there’s nowhere left to go. If you’ve got the master limiter disabled, turning the channel’s gain further just results in nasty distortion. If you do have Traktor’s master limiter switched on, you can crank the volume further, but at the expense of sound quality again.
The limiter is basically a compressor, which quietens down the loudest parts of the track, “filling out” the sound to give the impression of more volume. (You know you are hitting the limiter when the red lights on Traktor’s output meters come on.)
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As most dance tracks released these days are already heavily compressed, adding further compression is not a good idea if you want your set to sound good (see the Loudness Wars video for more info on the effects of over-compression).
The solution:
I’ll explain the whys and wherefores in a moment, but here’s the simple solution to the problem:
- Turn Traktor’s master output control down – somewhere around -10dB works well (assuming you have a decent sound card)
- Turn the gain on the amp or analogue mixer you’re plugged in to up to compensate if necessary – this will give you plenty of headroom, so when you drop that track that hasn’t been mastered quite so loud, you can crank up the channel gains in Traktor without worrying about distortion
Tip: If you can, sound check before your set with a track that you know is quiet – make sure it sounds loud enough and that you aren’t clipping (driving into the red) the in-house equipment that you are hooked up to.
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Why it works…
The key to understanding what’s going on here is to understand what the “0dB” setting means in Traktor. dB (short for “decibel”) is a relative measure of volume – it tells you the difference between two levels.
Many analogue mixers have “0dB” marked on the VU meter – this usually corresponds to 0dBV, which means it is measuring the difference between the current level and an output voltage of 1 volt. You can push the level above this and still get a nice clean output from most mixers – on the best ones, up to +20dB on the mixer’s output meter.
But in Traktor, 0dB means “maximum output”. If you are using a good DJ sound card (or controller with a decent one built-in), this could mean you are putting out up to a walloping +20dBV. Leaving the master gain set to 0dB in Traktor is like turning every control on your mixer right up to maximum at the start of your set. Not a good idea. So why would Native Instruments choose to mark the gain control like this? Well, it’s actually fairly common for digital equipment to designate 0dB as the maximum output. If you had auto gain turned off and were using Traktor in external mixer mode, sending each tune out to your sound card at maximum volume wouldn’t be such a bad thing, as most DJ mixers can handle a pretty hot signal coming in.
Why use -10dB?
Earlier I suggested -10dB as a good setting for your master. There are a couple of reasons why.
The first is simply experience; I’ve found this gives enough headroom to level match tracks without slamming into the limiter. If you play lots of older tracks you might find you need to use an even lower setting.
The second reason is related to the actual output voltage you are sending to the next thing in the audio chain. If you’ve every played on a big system with a sound engineer, you’ve probably been asked to “keep it out of the red” – ie to stick to a maximum of 0dB on the mixer. A clean 0dBV signal allows the guy running the system to crank it up to full volume without worrying about it being destroyed.
I use a Motu UltraLite sound card which has a maximum output around 17dBV, so in theory I should set my master output in Traktor to -17dB or lower in order to give a real output of 0dBV. If I was hooking my sound card up directly to a pro amplifier or a big sound system, that’s what I would do. In most cases though, digital DJs hook up their kit to one of the mixer inputs. DJ mixers are usually optimised these days for the relatively hot output level from a Pioneer CDJ (around 6dBV). Bringing the master level up in Traktor to -10dB with my set up gives a similar level on my mixer as I get with a CDJ.
Remember…
The key thing to take away here is that 0dB in Traktor really means maximum output. Using a master setting of -10dB (or even much lower) will give you a fighting chance of keeping the levels kicking on the dancefloor without distorting.
• This was a guest post by Colin Brown, who is a DJ with over 10 years’ experience, and who is also system tech for the Babble Collective Soundsystem.
Do you have level problems when using Traktor to DJ out and about with? Have you battled with a sound engineer about how the settings should be? Let us know in the comments.
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The Surface Pro line of hybrid PC’s, including the recently released Surface Pro 3, were designed as road warriors, devices that could handle your full computing needs on the go. With each generation introducing new features to make the device more powerful, and more “lapable,” but the core goal remains the same.
The tablet/laptop hybrid can surprisingly handle relatively intensive, resource-heavy tasks quite well, mainly thanks to the Intel ‘Haswell’ CPU’s in the Surface Pro 2 and 3. But there is always room for improvement. This guide will help you make the most out of your Surface Pro – regardless of its generation – and squeeze as much raw power out of it as possible. While there isn’t much you can do in terms of upgrading the hardware of the Surface to increase performance, there are a few things you can do to optimize the software running on it.
1) Switch to High Performance
Changing your Surface’s power plan can make a significant difference in performance. If you’re running resource intensive applications like Photoshop, AutoCAD, or games, switching to High Performance mode could result in higher frame-rates and reduced lag. It works by disabling CPU power management and dynamic clock scaling. Basically, it means that your CPU will work harder at the cost of battery life, so you should really only use this mode when you’re connected to the power outlet, unless you really need it.
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Switching to High Performance mode is relatively easy; simply click the battery icon on the Windows taskbar, then click ‘More power options’, then ‘show additional plans’. ‘High performance’ is right under it.
NOTE: Remember to change the power plan back to ‘Balanced’ or ‘Power saver’ to maximize battery life when you’re done.
2) Manually close unnecessary background apps
Next, closing running applications will free up system resources, allowing more to be allocated to your resource-heavy application. Modern UI applications will continue to run in the background even after you close them. They remain in a “suspended state” although they still use up memory and could collectively make a difference in performance, depending on how many are open/suspended at a time. This is not a glitch, the apps remain open in the background so that when you come to open them again, they quickly resume exactly where you last left off, making for faster multitasking.
There are two ways to completely close Modern UI apps. The first is to use the swipe-down-and-hold gesture while a Modern app is open. Alternatively, you can use the Windows Task Manager. Right-click the taskbar, then ‘Task Manager’. Click on the apps, then hit ‘End task’.
NOTE: It is not recommended to close Desktop applications this way as this method abruptly kills their processes, without saving any work. Close desktop applications as you normally would using the red ‘close’ button, many desktop apps will prompt you to save your work before safely closing.
3) Disable unnecessary system tasks
After you’ve ensured that all your work is saved and that you’ve closed any running desktop and Modern UI apps. You can proceed to the next step. This step is a little more advanced as it involves closing system apps that if not handled carefully, could result in Windows crashing.
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Start by once again launching the Task Manager, then click ‘More details’. Under the ‘Processes’ tab of the now expanded Task Manager, you should see three sections; ‘Apps’, ‘Background processes’, and ‘Windows processes’. If you’ve followed the steps above, the only item under Apps should be the Task Manager itself, if not, simply select the other apps, and click End task.
But we’re really here for what’s under ‘Background processes’. How do i get boot camp for my mac. David cook come back to me free download. You can start by ending the processes that you recognize and are aware that you do not need. Processes such as the “Adobe Acrobat Update Service” that is common if you’ve got any Adobe applications installed. Or other Modern Apps which sometimes show up here such as the Sound Recorder app.
If you’re unsure about what to keep open or close, you can download applications specifically designed to do this, such as Razer’s Game Booster or similar alternatives.
NOTE: Nothing under ‘Windows processes’ should be touched, these are directly related to the running of the operating system and are likely to cause stability issues if tampered with incorrectly.
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After following these steps, you can go ahead and launch your focus application or game and hopefully you’ll see a noticeable improvement in performance. Keep in mind that that is not always the case though as other factors can also affect the performance of your Surface such as outdated drivers, viruses, and regular wear and tear. Also, if your storage capacity is in the red and nearly filled up, performance could suffer.
If you have any other tips and tricks on increasing Surface performance, sound off in the comments below!
For those of you on the Surface Pro 3, as pointed out by one of our readers below, these Power Options are not available by default on a Surface Pro 3, due to the implementation of InstantGo. Only the balanced power option is available. The additional Power Option Profiles only populate after InstantGo is disabled. Thanks Spunk for Robots!